The Cave Bear of Wenslingen, Grossholz near Ormalingen and the Ergolz in Oltingen

The stream Ergolz in canton Basel-Landschaft has a length of about 30 Kilometres. It originates at an altitude of 830 metres at the Geissflue on the cantonal border of Basel-Landschaft and Solothurn. It then flows through, among others, the villages of Anwil, Oltingen, Rothenfluh and Ormalingen on its way to the Rhine.

Anwil

The Ergolz is the vein of the Talweiher Nature reserve and its fens (Weiher). Numerous waterfalls and streams flow into the Ergolz, an essential habitat for the Black Woodpecker, the beaver, countless other animals, and rich flora.

The borders of cantons sometimes pass through villages and towns. Moreover, there are sometimes enclaves of cantons (e.g. in the region of the Murtensee/lac Morat and Schaffhausen/Zürich) and even of neighbouring countries in cantons (e.g. Campesino in canton Tessin and Büssingen in canton Schaffhausen). The village of Oltingen also had such a history with the Ergolz as its border stream.

The Ergolz in Oltingen

Oltingen, the Schaffmatt  (820 m) on the background

The St. Nikolaus church (1296) was renovated in the 15th century with beautiful wall paintings (15th century).

In the Middle Ages, the counts of Homberg, Froburg, Homburg, and Thierstein successively ruled the village. Basel acquired the town in 1461. However, the Ergolz separated the village into two parts. The right bank remained the property of Habsburg until the 17th century. Basel acquired this part only in the 17th century.

Kirche St. Nikolaus (1296, heutige Bau stammt aus der Spätgotik. Prächtige Fresken aus dem 15. Jahrhundert entdeckt, Old sawmill with large water wheel.

Ormalingen and the Ergolz

Ormalingen is another village on the banks of the Ergolz. Ormalingen is not only known for the Ergolz and its medieval church. Just beyond the village begins one of Switzerland’s largest contiguous forest areas, the Grossholz. The Grossholzweg, therefore, lives up to its name, nomen est omen, with beautiful views of valleys, villages, meadows and streams.

Grossholz

One of these villages is Wenslingen, with its monumental buildings, farmhouses, and views of the Wiesenberg in a landscape of ‘Kopfweiden’, arable land, and picturesque streams.

Wenslingen

Wenslingen, Ormalingen, and Oltingen are derived from Alemannic names. The Alemannic tribe, a German-speaking tribe, emigrated to this region after the Romans’ departure in the fifth century. Upon their arrival, (vulgar) Latin was the spoken language of the Romanised Celts. However, German (the Alemannic dialect) was the spoken language within a few generations.

De Wisenberg (1002 m)

 

Ormalingen, Wenslingen, Oltingen and Anwil are only a few kilometres apart. But even this short stretch has many cultural and natural attractions, and even the cave bear felt at home thousands of years ago, as evidenced by the cave (Bärenloch) near Wenslingen and the bones and teeth of a cave bear!

The Ergolz eventually flows into the Rhine at the ancient Roman Colonia Augusta Raurica (present-day Augst (Canton of Basel-Landschaft and Kaiseraugst (Canton of Aargau)), near the Wyhlen-Augst hydroelectric power station.

Thus, the circle is complete. After all, the Wenslingen, Ormalingen and Oltingen area was also inhabited in Roman (and prehistoric and Celtic) times, and the Ergolz, together with a Roman road, was the connecting factor.

The Swiss Alpine Club

The Swiss Alpine Club (Schweizer Alpen Club, SAC/Club Alpin Suisse, CAS) regularly organises hikes in this area and elsewhere in the country.

(Further information: www.sac-cas.ch)

The Talweiher Nature Reserve

The fens (Weiher)

 

La Chaux-de-Fonds, The Sapin-Style and Charles L’Eplattenier

Between 1905 and 1914, students at the École d’Art (Art School) de La Chaux-de-Fonds (canton of Neuchâtel), under the guidance of their teacher Charles L’Eplattenier (1874-1946), devised an original artistic language (le Style sapin) inspired by the Jura’s local nature. Sapin means pine, and there are plenty of them in this region.

In the early twentieth century, La Chaux-de-Fonds was a developing town. In barely sixty years, the population had tripled, and the isolated village in the middle of the forests at an altitude of 1,000 metres in the Jura mountains had become an industrial town of 40,000 inhabitants, a factory town focused entirely and exclusively on watchmaking.

La Chaux-de-Fonds established several specialised schools to train its pupils: L’École d’horlogerie (the watch school), of course, but also l’École de mécanique (the mechanic’s school), l’École de commerce (the trade school), l’École professionnelle de jeunes filles (the vocational school for young girls) and, finally, l’École d’arts appliqués à l’industrie (the school of applied arts for industry), or l’’École d’art (Art School).

The La Chaux-de-Fonds art school was founded in 1870 by the Société des Patrons Graveurs. The city took over the school in 1872 and moved to the new Collège Industriel (now the Collège Numa-Droz and the city library) a few years later.

Charles L’Eplattenier. Foto: Wikipedia

Charles L’Eplattenier

Charles L’Eplattenier was born on 9 October 1874 to a farming family near Neuchâtel. During his apprenticeship as a house painter, he also took drawing lessons. Talented and passionate, he was sent by his family to Budapest, where he enrolled at the School of Decorative Arts. Thanks to a cantonal scholarship, he went to Paris to study for three years at the École Nationale Supérieure des Beaux-Arts.

In 1897, back in his canton, Charles L’Eplattenier was hired by the École d’art de La Chaux-de-Fonds as a drawing teacher. He was 23, highly ambitious and charismatic.

Charles L’Eplattenier, Les Musiciennes, 1907, still Art Nouveau. Collection: Musée des beaux-arts de La Chaux-de-Fonds

In 1905, L’Eplattenier proposed opening a higher art and decoration course for the school’s best students. A major innovation was that this course would no longer be limited to horology-related subjects.

L’Eplattenier changed the entire education system, revised the curriculum and resolutely applied modern and innovative teaching methods. His great ambition was to create a new formal artistic language, le Style sapin (Pine-Style), rooted in Jura.

He dreamed of inventing with his students a regionalist variant of Art Nouveau (Jugendstil in Germany, Modernismo in Spain) specifically for la Chaux-de-Fonds.

André Evard (1876-1972), Femme à la Fourrure, 1909. Collection: Musée des beaux-arts de La Chaux-de-Fonds

L’Eplattenier wanted to use the Jura’s nature, its flora and fauna, as his main (if not only) source of inspiration. He defined a method in five successive stages, which his students had to master one by one: starting with the observation of the natural form in situ to extract the essential element, the idea, and gradually arriving at a geometric, stylised motif that could then be used in decorative compositions.

Inspired by L’Eplattenier, the École d’art de La Chaux-de-Fonds took part in competitions and international exhibitions and won the honorary diploma at the Milan International Exhibition in 1906 for the pocket watch cases made by its students.

La Chaux-de-Fonds, Crematorium. Photo: Wikipedia

Les Ateliers réunis and the Villa Fallet

In 1910, L’Eplattenier launched the Ateliers d’arts réunis to ” encourage cooperation between artists, industrialists and merchants”. The Ateliers produced mainly decorative commissions that served as practical work for students.

They designed about a dozen interiors, including the homes of watchmakers, such as the Salon bleu Spillmann, the hall of the post office in La Chaux-de-Fonds, the chapel in Cernier-Fontainemelon, and the pavilion of the observatory in Neuchâtel.

Observatory in Neuchâtel

The following year, L’Eplattenier broke away from the school by creating a New Section within the School of Art. The aim was to work together on joint projects and, ideally, to integrate artistic production into society and the region.

L’Eplattenier was assisted by three assistants, including Charles Édouard Jeanneret (1887-1965), the future Le Corbusier. Together with Jeanneret, he convinced watchmaker Louis-Edouard Fallet (1845-1916) to entrust the entire design and construction of his villa to students at the school. The Villa Fallet would become the ultimate manifesto of the Sapin style – a collective and total work of art.

Photografie: © Aline Henchoz

The end and rediscovery of the Sapin-Style

In just a few years, Charles L’Eplattenier had made the art school one of the three most important in Switzerland, alongside Zurich and Geneva. However, despite, or thanks to, these successes, from 1913, L’Eplattenier came into open conflict with his management and with the ‘classical’ teachers at the Collège Industriel.

His assistants tried to save the Nouvelle Section and received support from the big names of Art Nouveau in Paris, Berlin and Munich, who signed a manifesto. In vain, the city council closed the section on 1 August 1914. Les Ateliers réunis went bankrupt two years later due to a lack of sponsors.

Photografie: © Aline Henchoz

The term “sapin style” is a recent invention: L’Eplattenier and his contemporaries never used it. The style was quickly forgotten, and many of his creations were destroyed: the post office hall lost its decorations in 1959, and the chapel in Cernier-Fontainemelon was converted into flats in 1975 (although the original stained-glass windows were recovered in a warehouse last year).

The rediscovery and ‘sapin-style’ adventure dates back some 15 years. Today, the Musée des Beaux-arts de La Chaux-de-Fonds dedicates a room to it, where the famous stained-glass windows and their typical motifs of gentians, thistles and pine trees can be seen.

Lars Kophal (Neuchâtel), editor and journalist 

Some Impressions of the Style Sapin Collection of the Musée des beaux-arts de La Chaux-de-Fonds

Some more impressions of the Jura

The Trient Valley from Martigny to Châtelard-Frontière and the Espace Mont Blanc

The distance from Zermatt to Chamonix is 60 kilometres as the crow flies. The route by rail or road is about 140 kilometres. The distance of the hiking trail depends on the route and difficulty and is between 170 and 200 kilometres, but then you get something. Mountain passes, glaciers, numerous streams and waterfalls, valleys, flora and fauna, villages and towns and (with clear weather) the Matterhorn or Mont Blanc in sight.

The Mont Blanc

A combination of transport is also possible. From Zermatt, a train runs through the Matter Valley, and from Stalden ( the other split runs through the Saastal), it goes through the Visper Valley to Visp (named after the river Vispa). Along the way, there are several opportunities for walks with views of Switzerland’s highest mountains.

From Visp, a train or motorway goes to Martigny, with well-known places along the way, including Leuk, Leukerbad, Siders, Crans Montana, Verbier and Sitten and, among others, the Löschental, Turtmanntal, Val d’Anniviers (roughly the canton’s language border), Val d’Hérens, Val de Bagnes, Val d’Entremont and Val Ferret.

However, this contribution focuses on the much lesser-known stretch from Martigny to one of Switzerland’s smallest border towns, Châtelard-Frontière. This route in the Vallée du Trient is 20 kilometres long. This region is also known for the Espace Mont-Blanc project of France, Italy and Switzerland.

Picture: Espace Mont Blanc

Martigny

Martigny has a rich (Celtic and Roman) history and a rich cultural offering (including the Fondation Pierre Giannada, the Fondation Barry and the Médiathèque Valais). At Martigny, the Rhone bends to the north.

The Rhone on its way to Lake Geneva 

After the rise of (English) tourism from 1850 onwards, there was a connection by diligences from Martigny to Chamonix, la Route des Diligences. With the railway construction in 1906, it became less and less important. This railway operated only in summer until 1935, then also in winter. Finally, the car made the diligence completely obsolete. However, remnants, including road signs and bridges, can still be seen at Le Trétien.

The road to the French border passes through the villages of Vernayaz, Salvan, Les Marécottes, La Médettaz, Le Trétien, Finhaut, Châtelard-Village, and Châtelard-Frontière, among others. Le Tour des hameaux can cover several hamlets on this route.

The battery of the SBB in Vernayaz

Vernayaz

Juste après Martigny, en direction de Châtelard-Frontière, se trouve la Vallée du Trient. C’est dans les Gorges du Trient, près de la ville de Vernayaz, que s’est déroulée en 1844 l’une des dernières batailles (oubliées) sur le sol suisse. Cette belle vallée est un lieu de randonnée idéal et se trouve à seulement 20 kilomètres de la frontière française.

Salvan

Salvan

The first larger village after Vernayaz is Salvan (home of a Titanic cook and birthplace of telegraphy). The road through the Dailley Canyon (Gorges du Dailley) was built in 1895 and reopened to the public in 1995 after a renovation.

Les Marécottes

The village of Les Marécottes is known, among other things, for its zoo, the vegetable chou-rave valaisan (rutabage in French), which originated in Sweden (Rotabaggar) but has taken on a life of its own in this and surrounding villages. Jean-Charles Squinabol (1769-1836), a deserter from the army of the Kingdom of Sardinia, settled in the village and introduced this vegetable to the region.

La Médettaz

La Médettaz

Even the hamlet of La Médettaz had a tourist accommodation in 1900, Pension de la Creusaz. Today, there is a campsite. The main attractions are the Gorges du Triège, the ski resort La Creusaz, and the artificial lake Combassas (created in 1898).

Le Trétien

This village is best known for the Gorges du Triège (Gorges du Triège) and its many bridges (built in 1870), the route to Col de la Forclaz, and the Martigny-Chamonix route. The first hotel was built in 1888, la Pension de La Dent du Midi, then la Pension du Mont-Rose (1893) and le Chalet de la Forêt (1913).

Diligences and traders with their mules had been passing this gorge near the village for centuries. The most famous bridge on this thoroughfare is the 1808 stone bridge, which replaced the wooden bridge from previous centuries. The Jean-Charles Squinabol built this bridge.

The bridge and le sentier de Muletiers (1808) 

The present-day bridge 

The Gorges du Triège and its bridges

This road is included in the federal inventory of historical traffic routes (l’inventaire des Voies de communication historique de la Suisse) because of its cultural-historical value. The picturesque village is included in Switzerland’s cultural heritage (ISOS).

Former hotel and glacier du Trient

Finhaut

Finhaut already had three hotels in 1865; by 1913, on the eve of WWI (1914-1918), there were as many as 19 in this small village, partly due to its location on the Martigny-Chamonix (railway) road, proximity to the Swiss Alps, including the Trient glacier (Le glacier du Trient), nature and the Mont Blanc Massif.

La pension de la Croix- Fédérale (1860), Hôtel-Pension Bel-Oiseau (1879), le Beau Séjour (1892), le Chalet Suisse (1895), le Grand Hôtel de Finhauts (1896), le Mont Fleuri (1906), le Victoria ( 1906) and the famous Bristol hotel (1908), where, among others, Belgium’s King Albert I (1875-1934) regularly stayed, were the main guest accommodations.

Finhaut, Railway station

Bristol Hotel

The church and Chalet Suisse

English visitors built an English church around the turn of the century. After WWI and especially after WWII (1939-1945), the village could no longer compete with other winter sports villages and their modern facilities. However, it remained a busy holiday resort, especially in summer. Other attractions include the 1929 church, a successor to the old chapel from 1649, the old post office and le café de la Poste.

Châtelard-Village

Châtelard-Village is particularly famous for its dams and the Funiculaire. The Swiss railways (SBB/CFF) built the first hydroelectric power station to supply trains with electricity as early as 1917. Those visionary Swiss!

The hydroelectric power station of the SBB

They used water from the Barbarine, the Eau Noire, the Trient and the Triège. Vernayaz is home to the other power station and the modern battery. These reservoirs were extended by the Vieux-Ermosson in 1955, the Ermosson in 1955 and Châtelard II in 1977. On the French side, the hydropower plant at Vallorcine uses the Ermosson reservoir.

The hydroelectric power station Vallorcine

Châtelard-Frontière

Châtelard-Frontière (la Porte du Valais) owes its existence to the abbey of St Maurice. The abbot authorised inhabitants of Salvan to mine and inhabit the area in 1288. Valais was then a county with the bishop of Savoie as count and supreme secular administrator. Savoy governed Vallorcine.

Châtelard-Frontière, railway station

This border has not changed since then, except that the Duchy of Savoie ( part of the kingdom of Sardinia) joined the French Empire of Napoleon III (1808-1873) in 1860 after a referendum, and Valais has been part of the Swiss Confederation since 1815.

One of its first buildings was Madeleine Castl, built in 1323. Châtelard-Frontière makes a deserted impression today. The situation was different in the nineteenth century. Several Grand-Hotels were built around 1850, including L’hôtel Suisse (1840) and L’hôtel Royal (1875).

Unknown artist, 1793. Lithography de La Porte du Valais. Private collection

Châtelard-Frontière is also the transfer point for the local French train to Chamonix (and St Gervais). On this short route of about 11 kilometres, there are hiking trails and winter and summer sports facilities. But that’s another story.

Impressions of the surroundings 

Argentière (France)