The ancient centre and nature of the Episcopal town of Sitten

Sion (Sitten in German) in the canton of Valais (Wallis) is one of Europe’s most important prehistoric archaeological sites. The basin of the Sionne, the Rhone and the Valeria and Tourbillon hills have been continuously inhabited since prehistoric times. At the end of the 1st century BC, Sion became the capital of the Sedunes, one of Valais’s four Celtic peoples. The other tribes were the Nantuates, Verager and Uberer.

The Roman settlement was mainly located in the area of the present-day church of St Theodul and the western side of Valeria Hill. Large Roman bathing complexes were found under the church, which have been partially excavated. By the mid-4th century, Christianity was already the main religion.

St. Theodul Church and the square of the cathedral

The bishop’s seat was moved from Martigny to Sion at the end of the 6th century, and the first cathedral also dates from this time. King Rudolf III (977-1032) of Burgundy’s gift of the Valais to the bishop in 999 made the episcopal city the county’s capital.

The old town, view from the Valeria.

The prince-bishop had jurisdiction and administered the county through fiefs and officials. The inhabitants of Sion were subject to the bishop’s Meier (maior) as judge, the Viztum (vicedominus) as administrator and the Weibel (salterus).

The decline of the feudal social order and concessions by the bishop led to the citizens of Zion becoming increasingly independent. A document from 1217 can be considered the city’s first freedom document.

In 1338, the bishop recognised the rights of the citizens through a ‘letter of freedom’. In 1339, the Emperor of the Holy Roman Empire, Ludwig the Bavarian (1282-1347), granted the city the status of a free Reichsstadt. (imperial immediacy or Rechtsunmittelbarkeit). The bishop could no longer ignore citizens’ increased wealth and power, as in most cities of the Holy Roman Empire. Sitten was also one of the seven Sends of Oberwallis and, thus, a powerful political player.

Majorie Castle and the Museum of Art

In the 15th century, the episcopal town became embroiled in a power struggle between Savoy and Oberwallis, the so-called Raronhandel of 1414-1418. During the Burgundian Wars (1474-1477), Savoy 1475 conquered the city again. However, Savoy’s success was short-lived, as the Zenden of Oberwallis defeated Savoy’s troops in the same year and conquered Unterwallis. The seven Sends then ruled the area as Untertans territory until 1798.

 After that, the city experienced relatively peaceful times until 1798. Even the Reformation largely passed the town by, although there was a large community of Protestants in the mid-sixteenth century. However, the Zenden of Oberwallis chose the old faith.

However, the period of revolutionary France from 1789 onwards brought Wallis and Sitten to the brink of civil war. Supporters of French revolutionary ideals and representatives of the Ancien Régime rapidly polarising.

Things remained unsettled after the French invasion in 1798 and Napoleon’s founding of the Helvetic Republic (1798-1803). Oberwallis even started an armed rebellion in 1799, and Sitten, as the government town of the Helvetic Republic, was even pillaged.

Napoleon intervened in 1802 and declared Valais an independent Republic (i.e., not part of the Helvetic Republic but under French control). In 1810, the appearance of independence was over, and Napoleon annexed Wallis as the new Simplon Department of the Empire of France.

The History Museum 

Allied troops ended the French era in 1813, and in 1815, Sitten became the capital of the new canton of Valais.

However, peace had not returned. Supporters of the Ancien Régime and reformists were as irreconcilably opposed as ever. The confrontation eventually led to the Battle of Triente Bridge in 1844, the Sonderbund’s affiliation, and a lost war in 1847.

Natural History Museum

The new Constitution of the canton of Valais came into force in January 1848, and the new Municipal Law in 1851. After several amendments to the Constitution after 1848, the draft of a new Constitution for the canton was rejected by the citizens of Oberwallis and Unterwallis by a large majority. Local government also underwent several changes from 1851 in line with further democratisation. Today, the majority of the city is French-speaking.

(Source and further information: gemeinde Sitten; Sitten, Historisches Lexikon der Schweiz)

The environment and nature of Sitten

The Valère and Tourbillon hills in canton Valais/Wallis are included in the federal inventory of landscapes of national interest (Inventaire fédéral des paysages, sites et monuments naturels/Das Bundesinventar der Landschaften und Naturdenkmäler). They offer refuge to a large number of plants and small animals, some of which are very rare.

These hills result from geological forces that formed the Alps millions of years ago and by the erosion of glaciers that 20,000 – 15,000 years ago covered the Rhone valley with a 1,500 – 2,000-metre thick ice sheet.

For centuries, the dry meadows and grasslands have been the habitat of plants of Mediterranean or oriental origin adapted to the dry climate. Several rare insects, birds, small mammals and Mediterranean fauna feel at home in this environment.

The slopes of the hills are covered with steppe grassland, which is yellow and dry. They are structured by rocky outcrops of quartzite, a very ancient rock. In the valleys and mountain slopes, traces of centuries-old agriculture and viticulture can still be seen, irrigated by the famous suones with the Rhone and countless streams as water suppliers.

Impressions of Sion/Sitten

The Battle at the Trient Bridge and the Sonderbund War

The Sonderbundskrieg of 1847 is a well-known historical fact. However, who remembers the military confrontation between Old Switzerland (die Alte Schweiz) and Young Switzerland (die Junge Schweiz) on May 21 1844, at the Trient bridge (le pont du Trient) near Vernayaz in (Lower) Valais? Yet this battle, with about 60 dead, was a rehearsal of the Sonderbundskrieg of November 1847.

The canyon and bridge of Trient in 1844 © Archives et médiathèque Sion

At the national level, the radical liberals wanted a reform of the 1815 constitution. This reform is known as the Rossi Plan. The term ‘die Junge Schweiz/la Jeune Suisse’ is derived from ‘la Giovine Italia’ by Joseph Mazzini (1805-1872), an Italian lawyer whose aim was the unity of Italy.

He also founded the movement Young Europe (das Junge Europa/la Jeune Europe) in Bern in 1834 in exil, with the motto ‘Young Europe will defend itself against the Old Europe of the Monarchs (Das Junge Europa wird sich gegen das alte Europa der Könige durchsetzen).

Young Switzerland united a group of radical liberals, but not all of them. In Valais, it wanted a stronger national government at the expense of cantonal power, separation of church and state, abolition of censorship, freedom of association, a strengthening of citizens’ rights, more democracy and free settlement for newcomers, including Protestants in the Catholic canton. However, the centuries-old dominance of Upper Valais (Oberwallis/Haut-Valais) at the expense of Lower Valais (Unterwallis/Bas-Valais) also played a role.

Maurice Barman (1808-1878) was a leader of the Jeune Suisse/ Junge Schweiz and an essential politician from and for Bas-Valais/Unterwallis. Photo: Wikipedia

The Catholic conservatives, and especially the seven Zenden (Tithings) of Upper Valais, actually wanted to maintain the old situation (the ancien régime) and (Catholic) privileges. The Bishop of Sitten was the driving force behind this movement.

The cantonal government (Landrat), which included representatives from Lower Valais (with two members) and Upper Valais (with three members), was divided. At the national level, 11 cantons (actually 10.5) adopted all or part of the Rossi reform around 1830. This process is known as Regeneration. In Valais, however, little or nothing changed.

The Bâtiaz Bridge

From 1830 to 1839, the radical liberals and Young Switzerland gained increasing influence and support. The liberals and conservatives clashed not only verbally: on 11 April 1833, a skirmish broke out at the Bâtiaz Bridge in Martigny. The event goes down in history as the “bastonade” of Martigny.

The polarisation and escalation were such that the Tagsatzung (the national assembly of representatives of the cantons) mediated. This eventually led to changes in the constitution in 1839. However, the Catholic conservatives resisted and founded the movement ‘Old Switzerland’, led by the bishop of Sitten and supported by the seven Zenden of Upper Valais.

The location of the Battle of Trient nowadays, January 2024 

The six Zenden of Lower Valais supported the radical liberals and Young Switzerland. A split in the canton became a real possibility, and the situation became increasingly grim with violence, deaths and injuries.

The radicalisation continued, and both movements assembled a force. After many minor skirmishes, the Battle of the Trient Bridge occurred on May 21, 1844. The Catholic-conservative winners joined the Sonderbund in 1845.

Politically, the events in Valais between 1830 and 1844 are a precursor to the Sonderbundskrieg of 1847 (taking into account the specific sensitivities, historical development and local differences in this canton).

Nor is the March 3 2024 referendum unrelated to this history and the relationship between Lower Valais and Upper Valais.

(Source: Walliser Boten/ Le Nouvelliste; Vallée du Trient)

Vernayaz,the Trient

The English Church in Zermatt

Nothing in the world could induce the inhabitants of the Alps to go up a mountain as a leisure activity, let alone climb peaks. For the peasantry, mountains meant mostly danger from nature, demons and fantasy creatures until the 18th century.

However, writers, scientists and what we today call alpinists began to take an interest in mountains and their flora and fauna in the late 18th century. The first hikers and mountaineers presented themselves.

Decades before the English period of mountain climbers (around 1850), two French residents from Chamonix climbed Mont Blanc in 1786, encouraged by the Swiss scientist Horace-Bénédicte de Saussure (1740-1799).

Chamonix,  Horace-Bénédicte de Saussure

However, there was no tourist boom, although this climb was the day’s talk. The French Revolution and subsequent wars until 1815 halted further development.

The fact is that Britons discovered Switzerland and the Alps around 1850. The flora and fauna of the Alps and the beauty of nature and healthy air (not unimportant in Industrial Revolution England) unleashed a veritable trend, especially in the Swiss Alps.

This development was partly due to the positive coverage in (English) media, politics and business about that exceptional republic with sovereign cantons in the middle of Europe. In short, Switzerland was en vogue, not only for British tourists but also for political refugees from European monarchies on the continent.

The Matterhorn

Zermatt was the cradle for mountaineers. The English Gentleman usually took his family along, too. They expected comfort, and local entrepreneurs, hoteliers, transport operators (until the advent of the train and later cars with the carriage), restaurants, and cultural events met the need.

A critical need was a location for services of the English (Anglican) Church. Zermatt was Catholic, and there was no Protestant church. Church services were initially held in Monte Rosa (owner Alexander Seiler), Mont Cervin (owner Joseph Clementz) and Hotel des Alpes.

Zermatt, Alexander Seiler (1819-1891) and Katharina Seiler (1834-1895) monument

With financial and political support from Seiler and Clementz, English tourists began fundraising for an Anglican church in early 1865. Then, however, disaster struck. The first successful ascent of the Matterhorn on July 14 1865, ended with the deaths of four of the seven mountaineers. Among the victims was alpinist-dominee Charles Hudson (1828-1865). Mountaineering, Zermatt and the Matterhorn fell out of favour for several years.

Time heals (many) wounds, and the Baedeker (a leading ‘Lonely Planet’) again praised them in 1868. Moreover, American tourists had also found their way to Zermatt.

The first church service in the new Anglican church took place on June 29 1870. The Bishop of Dover, Edward Parry (1830-1890), consecrated the church on August 6, 1871. The unfortunate Charles Hudson found his final resting place under the church’s altar, and other crashed climbers were given a place around the church.

Zermatt was again the most important place for mountaineers, and the church was the ‘parish church of the (British) Alpine Club’, founded in 1857. The prestige was so great that the British Alpine Club commemorated its centenary in Zermatt and the English church!

After 1870, however, more and more tourists came because of motives other than climbing. Other summer and winter sports developed. Winston Churchill (1874-1961) visited Zermatt in 1894. Although he is known, among other things, for saying ‘no sports’, he was indeed a sportsman in his younger years. According to tradition, he even climbed Monte Rosa (4634 m).

These times are long gone, and after 1945, the composition of tourists and their pursuits also changed. However, the Anglican church is still an important center for (English-speaking) tourists and Protestant services.

(Source and further information: Cicely Williams, A Church in the Alps, Zermatt 1970, 6th edition, in 2006; www.zermatt.ch).